Seoul unfurls itself slowly and mysteriously. It's a multi-layered story that you have to seek out in its back-alleys and winding streets. Of course as a foreigner there are many more mysteries for me that are commonplace for a local. But still, it rewards patience and is best explored on foot, unmapped, unguided. And the most interesting things will a lot of the time be there waiting, just for you. Not yet picked over and broadcast to the world outside.